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- Path: bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!faqserv
- From: bartlone@zeke.med.ge.com (Michel Bartolone)
- Newsgroups: rec.arts.bonsai,alt.bonsai,news.answers,rec.answers,alt.answers
- Subject: The rec.arts.bonsai/alt.bonsai FAQ: Part2
- Supersedes: <bonsai-faq/part2_761584275@rtfm.mit.edu>
- Followup-To: rec.arts.bonsai,alt.bonsai
- Date: 21 Mar 1994 10:52:09 GMT
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- X-Last-Updated: 11/6/93
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- Xref: bloom-beacon.mit.edu rec.arts.bonsai:3496 alt.bonsai:1487 news.answers:16645 rec.answers:4515 alt.answers:2161
-
- Archive-name: bonsai-faq/part2
- Name: Part2 Version: 2.2 LastUpdate: 11/6/93 13:37:19
-
- Section 5 -- Soils
-
- Special thanks to Reji Martin for most of the following section
- on soils. There has been some discussion of whether one single
- type (or size?) of soil could actually be used from top to
- bottom in a pot, but I don't think there is a definite answer
- as of yet. So, as a general guideline, this info is widely
- accepted.
-
- BONSAI SOILS
-
- A good general rule of thumb for all trees is a uniform mix
- of loam, peat, & sand. A good mix (or compost) should be
- well-balanced. The proportions of each will change according
- to the species of tree. For instance, pines & junipers will
- prefer a mix which is principally sand; rhododendrons &
- azaleas like a peaty compost; while fruity & flowering trees
- like plenty of loam. A good suggestion is to try to match the
- original soil(s) the tree came with, if possible. If not, the
- following chart will help:
-
- NOTE: The sand should be a coarse, grit-like substance to
- promote good drainage!
-
- TYPE SPECIES SAND PEAT LOAM
-
- General mix Most varieties 2 1 1
-
- Pine/Juniper 4 1 0
-
- Conifer mix Cypress, &
- other conifers 3 1 1
- General
- deciduous mix 2 1 1
-
- Fruit/Flower mix 1 1 2
-
- Lately I have been experimenting with soil mixtures,
- which seems to be the best way to understand them. It
- became quite obvious to me that some of my trees had been
- set back a year's growth because the soil wasn't right.
- There was very little new root growth. When I transplanted
- them into a good mix, the new root growth was triple the
- amount of old root!
-
- Good drainage is extremely important, as the roots require
- some air too! I have been covering the base of the pot with
- small gravel and then adding the proper mix for the
- particular tree; and, to top it off, I use a finely-sifted
- loam to promote moss growth. A proper soil mix will allow
- for drainage while holding enough moisture for the plant
- without causing root rot, etc.
-
- (Editor's note: The fine soil on the top should be a VERY thin
- layer and is only really there to allow moss a good footing.)
-
- \\ || //
- \\|||/
- \||||
- /-----------------------||||-----------------------------\
- Fine |::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::|
- |--------------------------------------------------------|
- Mix |;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;|
- |;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;|
- |--------------------------------------------------------|
- Gravel |o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/|
- |o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/o/|
- | ---------------------------------------------- |
- | | | |
- |_____| |_____|
-
-
-
- Experimentation and observation is the best way to find the
- right soil mix for your tree(s). If you are in doubt use the
- above mentioned 'General mix'. Pines and junipers can be as
- much as 70-80% sand!
-
- Also, it has been noted that many (most?) Bonsai nurseries
- now carry prepackaged bonsai soil which can be used as is,
- or modified for your specific trees.
-
-
- Section 6 -- JUNIPERS
-
- The Juniper is one of the most recognized bonsai specimens and
- is frequently the first bonsai purchase many newcomers make.
- Junipers do make very fine bonsai. Although they are not
- 'difficult' bonsai to manage, they are frequently 'mistreated'
- and therefore do not last long. We have gotten LOTS of
- questions about "brown junipers" and what 'first aid' you might
- give them. Well, we hate to break the news to you, but, if you
- have a brown juniper, it is probably dead. Don't get too
- depressed; even the best have lost a tree...or 5...or 10. The
- most common mistakes made with junipers are over watering AND
- lack of sufficient sunlight. Junipers are outdoor trees. If you
- have no way to grow them outside, find some nice person who knows
- about bonsai and can give them a good home. If you want to try a
- juniper anyway, make sure it gets plenty of sun, don't over water
- it, and make sure it gets plenty of air. If you have an ailing
- juniper, and if you have managed to catch it early enough, you may
- want to remove the tree from its pot and bare-root it. Then repot
- it in pure sand. This is an extreme measure. Your best bet, if you
- do want to attempt to save your tree, is to take it to a bonsai
- club or reputable dealer/supplier.
-
-
- Section 7 -- Indoor bonsai
-
- Many people make the mistake of assuming that since bonsai is
- in a pot, it must be kept indoors. Some people get into bonsai
- just because they want to have a tree inside. Most of the trees
- you will see in the books and magazines, however, are actually
- kept outdoors most, if not all, of the year. Any tree you get
- which is native or "zone hardy" in your area should be kept
- outdoors. There are many trees which may be "outdoor" trees in
- tropical or semi-tropical places, but do well indoors given the
- proper care. Windows block a great deal of light...a great deal
- more than you would imagine. Also, unless you have an attached
- greenhouse, the sun will be getting blocked off for at least part
- of the day due to walls, the roof, etc. I would suggest getting
- some extra lights for your trees. I got an inexpensive "shop
- light" fixture, a timer, and two bulbs (one is warm spectrum, one
- is a "cool white"). Total cost was about 25 dollars. I leave the
- light on from 14 to 16 hours per day, and keep my plants as close
- as possible to the tubes. Indoor plants also need different
- watering schedules than outdoor trees. In the summer, when most
- outdoor trees are growing vigorously and have nice warm breezes
- and a nice bright sun, they will usually need to be watered
- everyday. Indoor bonsai are in very different conditions.
-
-
- A special thank you to Hud Nordin for the following list of indoor
- bonsai.
-
- In Dorothy Young's "Bonsai: the Art and Technique", for warm indoor
- temperatures (65-75 daytime), she suggests:
-
- Auraucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine)
- Bougainvillea glabra
- Brassaia actinophylla (Schefflera)
- Calliandra emaginate (powder-puff)
- Carissa grandiflora (Natal plum)
- Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob)
- Citrus Limon (lemon)
- Crassula argenta (jade tree)
- Cuphea hyssopifolia (elfin herb)
- Cycas revoluta (cycad)
- Ehretia microphylla (fukien tea)
- Ficus Aurea (strangler fig), F. benjamina, deltoidea, microcarpa,
- neriifolia, pumila, runignosa [big win in the fig family!]
- Grevillea robusta (silk oak)
- Hedera helix (ivy)
- Lagerstroemia indica (crape myrtle)
- Malpighia coccigera & glabra (miniature holly & Barbados cherry)
- Myrtus communis (Greek myrtle)
- Olea europaea (olive)
- Pithecellobeum flexicaule (Texas ebony)
- Punica granatum (pomegranate)
- Pyracantha coccinea, fortunaea, koidzumii (everlasting thorn,
- Chinese fire thorn, Formosa fire thorn)
- Sageretia thea (sageretia)
- Schinus terebinthifolius (Brazilian pepper)
- Serissa foetida (serissa)
- Severinia buxifolia (Chinese box orange)
- Syzygium paniculatum (brush cherry)
-
-
- 60 F - 65 F Daytime Temperatures
-
- Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine)
- Brassaia actinophylla (Schefflera)
- Calliandra emarginata (dwarf powder puff)
- Ceratonia siliqua (carob tree)
- Chamaecyparis pisifera, thyoides (Sawara cypress, dwarf white cedar)
- Cotoneaster microphyllus (Chinese cotoneaster)
- Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar)
- Cupressus arizonica, macrocarpa, sempervirens (Arizona, Monterey,
- Italian cypress)
- Cycas revoluta (cycad)
- Ficus benjamina, carica, deltoidea, microcarpa, nerrifolia, pumila,
- rubignosa (figs)
- Gardenia jasminoides (common gardenia)
- Hedera helix (English ivy)
- Ilex crenata, vomitoria (Japanese, Yaupon holly)
- Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens, squamata (procumbent, prostrate
- juniper)
- Ligustrum japonica (Japanese privet)
- Murraya paniculata (Orange jasmine)
- Myrtus communis (Greek myrtle)
- Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo)
- Olea europea (European olive)
- Pithecellobium flexicaule (Texas ebony)
- Pittosporum tobira (Mock orange)
- Podocarpus macrophyllus (Buddhist pine)
- Polyscias balfouriana, fruticosa (Balfour, ming aralia)
- Punica granatum (pomegranate)
- Pyracantha coccinea, fortuneana, koidzumii (everlasting thorn, Chinese
- fire thorn, Formosa fire thorn)
- Rhododendron indicum, kiusianum (satsuki, kyushu azalea)
- Sageretia thea (sageretia)
- Serissa foetida (serissa)
- Severinia buxifolia (Chinese box orange)
- Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese elm, especially the Catlin)
-
- Cool (40 F - 60 F) Daytime Temperatures
-
- (Bring indoors in winter, and take them outdoors in the spring.)
-
- Buxus microphylla and sempervirens (boxwood)
- Chaenomeles japonica (Japanese flowering quince)
- Chamaecyparis obtusa, pisifera, thyoides (Hinoki, Sawara cypress,
- dwarf white cedar)
- Cryptomeria japonica (Japanese cedar)
- Ilex crenata (Japanese holly)
- Juniperus chinensis var. procumbens, squamata (procumbent, prostrate
- juniper)
- Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo)
- Pyracantha angustifolia, coccinea (fire thorn, everlasting thorn)
- Rhododendron indicum, kiusianum (satsuki, Kyushu azalea)
- Thuja occidentalis (American arborvitae)
- Ulmus parvifola (Chinese elm)
-
-
- Section 8 -- Clubs, Associations
-
- Clubs and Associations
- -------------------------
- *Please have your club included here! It is NOT for vanity
- purposes, its for the new people to find your group!*
-
-
- Bonsai Institute of California
- PO Box 6268
- Whittier, CA 90609 USA
-
- Bonsai - Zentrum Muenster
- Wolfgang Klemend
- Weselerstr. 57
- D-4400 Muenster
- Germany
- (note: Club AND Nursery)
-
- Svenska Bonsais{llskapet
- c/o Margit K}berger
- Kornbodsg. 27
- S-724 81 V{ster}s
- Sweden
-
- Milwaukee Bonsai Society
- P.O. Box 198
- Brookfield WI 53008-0198 USA
- Meetings begin at 7:00pm the first Tuesday of each Month from
- Feb-Nov. McCarty Park Pavilion 2567 S. 79th St., West Allis, WI
-
-
- Midwest Bonsai Society
- P. O. Box 1373
- Highland Park, IL 60035
- Meets 1st Monday of the month at the Chicago Botanical Society Gardens
- in Glencoe, IL.
-
- Albuquerque Bonsai Club
- P.O. Box 6979
- Albuquerque, NM 87197
- Meets 1st Wednesday each month
- Connie Gardner, president
- (505) 268-6284
-
- Prairie State Bonsai Society
- (formerly Morton Arboretum Bonsai Society)
- P. O. Box 2634
- Glen Ellyn, IL 60138-2634
- Meets 4th Monday of the month at College of DuPage.
-
-
- San Diego Bonsai Club, Inc.
- PO Box 40037
- San Diego, CA 92164
- (619) 231 - 9899
- Meets 2nd Sunday each month in Rm 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park at 11am.
-
- End of Section 8 -- Clubs, Associations
- End of part 2 of 5 of the rec.arts.bonsai/alt.bonsai FAQ
- Continued in part 3
-